开敞海塘前沿潮滩波浪统计特征分析

黄世昌; 董伟良; 石磊; 邵杰

doi:doi:10.19912/j.0254-0096.tynxb.2024-1234

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开敞海塘前沿潮滩波浪统计特征分析

更新时间：2025-12-10

- 开敞海塘前沿潮滩波浪统计特征分析
- Issue 11, Pages: 289-298(2025)
- 作者机构：
- 作者简介：
- 基金信息：
- DOI：doi:10.19912/j.0254-0096.tynxb.2024-1234
  CLC： V139
- Published Online：04 December 2025，
  
  Published：04 December 2025
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黄世昌, 董伟良, 石磊, et al. 开敞海塘前沿潮滩波浪统计特征分析[J]. 2025, (11): 289-298.
DOI：

黄世昌, 董伟良, 石磊, et al. 开敞海塘前沿潮滩波浪统计特征分析[J]. 2025, (11): 289-298. DOI： doi:10.19912/j.0254-0096.tynxb.2024-1234.

摘要

基于波浪耗散型海塘前沿两次外围台风过程的波面测量

测量数据反映了超浅海极缓坡条件下潮汐过程的波浪统计特征。测点处于破波区

在潮滩漫水到高潮过程中最大波高与水深比可达0.61

存在破碎后的波浪重组

均方根波高与水深比相对较低

限于0.3以内

受波浪破碎的限制

两次台风过程中最大波高与平均波高的比值统计平均分别为1.46和1.47。瑞丽分布和格鲁霍夫斯基分布分别能较好拟合水深2 m以下和3 m以上的波高分布

对于水深介于2~3 m的潮波过程两类分布拟合精度均略差。实测波高的偏度大多数为正偏

峰度基本上是负值

波高的分布比瑞丽分布更接近对称分布

比瑞丽分布和格鲁霍夫斯基分布更平坦

分布域更广

峰度系数与偏度系数具有良好的相关性。谱分布表明

“卡努”台风期间涌浪集中的低频波区段占主导地位

风波集中在高频区段

存在次生的更低频波动

能量较弱;“海葵”台风期间

两处低频波区段占主导作用

风波集中在高频区段

整体较弱。

Abstract

Field measurements are made in front of the wave-dissipative seawall during two typhoonevents to investigate wave characteristics under varying tidal levels in ultra-shallow sea environments with highly gentle slopes. During tidal cycles

the maximum wave height-to-water depth ratio reaches 0.61. Post-breaking wave phenomena exhibit wave recombination. The root mean square （RMS） wave height-to-water depth ratio is relatively low

with a maximum value of approximately 0.3. Due to wave breaking

the ratio of the maximum wave height to the average wave height is found to be 1.46 and 1.47

respectively

during the two typhoon processes. The Rayleigh distribution is found to adequately fit the wave height distribution in water depths below 2 m

In constrast

the Glukhovskiy distribution provides a better fit for wave height distribution in water depths above 3 m. For water depths between 2 and 3 meters

the fitting accuracy of both distributions is slightly lower. For the measured wave

the skewness of the height distribution is primarily positive

while the kurtosis is negative. Its wave height distributionexhibits greater symmetry compared to the Rayleigh distribution

showing a flatter pattern and a wider domain than both the Rayleigh distribution and the Grukhovsky distribution . Moreover

a strong correlation is observed between the kurtosis and skewness coefficient of the measured wave. Spectral analysis reveals during Typhoon Khanun

lower-frequency surges are predominant

accompanied by a secondary low-frequency wave with weak energy. In contrast

during Typhoon Haikui

two primary low-frequency wavecomponents are dominant

while wind waves

which are relatively weak

are concentrated in the high-frequency range.

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